Kenya by Land
Into the Mara
The Nairobi morning buzzes with life as my taxi zips through the waking city and pulls into Wilson Airport. Overhead, wispy clouds grace a cobalt sky. This marks the beginning of what is to be an unforgettable journey through Kenya’s most extraordinary landscapes — an adventure of a lifetime. Inside the terminal, travellers bustle about — some bound for the coast, others for the bush. My destination? The legendary Maasai Mara.
Soon I’m airborne in a small Cessna Grand Caravan, cutting through the clouds. The Maasai Mara lies within the Great Rift Valley, a massive geological trench that stretches over 6,000 kilometers from Lebanon to Mozambique — in the Mara, this ancient fault line has helped shape the region’s rolling grasslands, escarpments, and rich biodiversity. High above the ochre plains of Nairobi National Park, where giraffes cast long shadows across the savannah, this is a classic bush flight — turbulent, thrilling, and always unforgettable.
As we descend into the Mara, storm clouds gather on the horizon — rain is on its way. Because Kenya straddles the Equator, its seasons are defined more by rainfall than by temperature, divided into dry and rainy periods. April falls within the long rains, making the weather beautifully dramatic and often unpredictable. Below us, wildebeest graze on grass so vibrantly green it seems almost surreal. Once on the ground, I’m met with warm smiles from my driver, David, and spotter, George. Having a spotter along transforms the game drive — while David focuses on navigating and driving, George scans the landscape with his binoculars, picking out wildlife I’d never notice on my own. Within minutes of leaving the airstrip, we spot a pride of lions stalking a family of warthogs. The chase fizzles out as the lions lose interest, slipping back into the grass. We carry on, spotting herds of wildebeest, zebra, giraffe, and a lone topi antelope standing tall on a termite mound.
As we near camp, a lion pair emerges from the shadows—raw, wild, and unmistakably Mara. We can tell they’re courting because they’re separated from the rest of the pride. Lions can mate up to 40 times a day during a four-to-five-day courtship, with each brief session occurring every 15 to 30 minutes to maximise the chance of baby cubs. Time melts away in the magic of it all and, before long, the sky darkens. Thunder rumbles in the distance, lightning forking across the plains. Here comes the storm.
We approach Roca River Camp, where Milton, a waiter, welcomes me with a glowing fire and an icy gin and tonic. Ross, the owner of Roca River Camp, and Philip — affectionately known as Flip Flop — who manage it, are the warm, welcoming faces behind this hidden gem. What makes this place truly special is the personal touch: during guests’ stay, they’re always hosted by one of the owners themselves, adding an intimate, home-away-from-home feel to the Mara experience. My tent — simple luxury under canvas — offers a steaming shower and the comforting weight of a hot water bottle tucked between the sheets. Outside, hippos chuckle and lions roar into the night. Sleep comes quickly after a day packed with wonder.
At midday, lunch is a colourful feast of fresh salads and hearty chicken stew. Food on safari varies widely from camp to camp, often offering an exciting blend of international cuisine with thoughtful touches of local flavour. Many camps incorporate regional dishes into their menus, giving guests a chance to try something truly Kenyan. One such dish is ugali — a Swahili staple made from maize — commonly served with beans and sautéed spinach. It’s a hearty, traditional meal that offers an authentic taste of local culture, subtly woven into the safari dining experience. Replete with this experience, I settle into an afternoon siesta, a moment when time slows and the world softens. It’s a chance to reset before my next adventure, which will take us North towards Samburuland.
As evening falls and another storm rolls in, we gather beneath canvas for dinner. The sounds of the wild echo around us: hippos grunting, rain drumming overhead, and the Mara slipping into its nocturnal rhythm.
How to get there (Mara):
Take a four-to-five-hour drive from Nairobi or fly daily with commercial airlines from Wilson Airport.
Other Mara activities:
Visits to a traditional Maasai boma (village), scenic helicopter rides, guided bush walks, horse-back safaris, annual gravel-biking race and trips to the nearby rhino sanctuary.
NB: Always ensure you’re travelling responsibly and safely. Use reputable tour companies and safaris and don’t get too close to the courting lions.
Maasai Mara roughly translates from the local language of mara to “the spotted land of the Maasai”– a reference to the way the landscape appears “spotted” from above with its scattered trees, bushes, and shadows moving across the savannah.
A Samburu warrior welcome
In the morning, we leave to head to Samburuland, we take a farewell game drive across the plains, rewarded with the sight of eight lions striding purposefully forward — a fitting Mara goodbye. But adventure has one last twist: we get bogged down in thick mud en route to the airstrip. Thanks to the swift response of the Roca River Camp team, who arrived with a backup safari vehicle, towing ropes, and three staff members, we managed to get unstuck and make our flight just in time. While waiting for reinforcements, we’d spent a tense 45 minutes trying to gain traction by shoving rocks and logs under the tyres.
Flying north with charter airline Air Wilderness, we trace the curve of Mount Kenya and the misty Aberdare Range. The landscape changes dramatically, cool highlands giving way to arid Samburu scrub. Samburu lies at Kenya’s northern frontier, a land of stark beauty where arid plains, rocky outcrops, and winding riverbeds shape a wilder, more rugged safari. As I explore this remote region, the landscape feels worlds apart from the lush south. Along the Ewaso Nyiro river, I encounter the rare “Samburu Special Five”: Grevy’s zebra, reticulated giraffe, Somali ostrich, Beisa oryx, and the gerenuk, also known as the giraffe gazelle. It’s a striking reminder of how diverse, and surprising, Kenya’s wildlife can be.
Captain Alex, our pilot and a fountain of knowledge, points out hidden landmarks and ancient valleys as we approach the Kalepo Camp airstrip. The Mathews Range, which extends 150km out across Kenya’s northern frontier towards Laikipia, rises like a dream from the earth.
Three Samburu warriors meet us at the airstrip. Samburu warriors, known as morans, are young men between the ages of about 15 and 30 who undergo traditional initiation rites marking their transition into adulthood. They live in warrior villages, protect their community, and are easily recognised by their elaborate hairstyles, beaded jewellery, and vibrant attire. As times have changed and the culture has modernised, Samburu warriors may now be employed by the likes of Kalepo Camp to earn an income.
The scent of rain clings to the air. We drive past livestock, cathedral-like acacias, and winding riverbeds. Then, Kalepo Camp reveals itself, tucked into the base of the Matthews Mountains like a hidden paradise. Kalepo Camp is a sensory experience where people can eat, stay, and discover Samburuland and its rich culture earthy, refined, and deeply connected to the land. Lunch is vibrant, fresh, and sourced from the flourishing garden. The camp has built its own greenhouses and gardens to grow fresh vegetables and fruits — an essential solution given how remote the camp is and how difficult it can be to access regular supplies.
That afternoon, we take part in the Warrior Games, an energetic gathering of Samburu warriors on a dry riverbed, where singing, laughter, and the sharp whistle of spears fill the air. These traditional contests of strength and skill — like spear throwing and high jumping — offer a vivid window into the lives of young warriors. Even as an observer, I feel a deeper connection to Kenya’s cultural heritage and appreciation of Samburu identity and community.
Dinner is served alfresco in the flowing riverbed just in front of camp — barefoot luxury at its finest. Stories flow around the fire and sleep comes easily in the wild heart of Samburu.
Bush by bike
Sunlight pours through the mountain pass as I sip morning coffee in bed. Soon, we’re off on a 45-minute mountain bike ride through the ancient terrain of Samburuland, under the watchful gaze of the Matthews Range. Along the way, we spot warthogs, vulturine guinea fowl, and dik-dik—Africa’s smallest antelope. The bike ride is exhilarating, with winding red roads and rugged rocky outcrops, each turn holding a surprise. After days of travel, the feeling of freedom this much-needed exercise inspires is exactly what I need.
Brunch is decadent — I opt for a rhubarb fizz and a delicious array of delicacies to propel me into the afternoon activities. Later, we join Samburu warriors for an incredible bush walk, encountering more noisy warthogs, peaceful elephants, and graceful gerenuk. It’s powerful to spend one-on-one time with the Samburu and learn how they use local flora for natural healing.
Dinner is pizza night — Chef Tahre’s creations rival anything I’ve had in Naples. As the heavens open, we gather in the beautifully adorned mess tent, filled with vintage African relics. We swap stories over chamomile tea and chocolate bark. A sweet, soulful end to a perfect Samburu day.
How to get there:
Charter a flight or take a commercial flight to Kalama Airstrip, followed by a two-hour drive to Kalepo. You can also drive from Nairobi (approx. seven hours).
Activities:
Samburu cultural visits, helicopter flips, mountain biking, rock climbing, bush walks, camel safaris, fly camping, game drives, and visits to Reteti Elephant Sanctuary.
Jack Swynnerton
Jack was born in Australia and raised in the safari hub of Arusha, Tanzania, from the age of three. He grew up immersed in the wild and had the privilege of exploring all corners of Africa, with extensive experience across East Africa. Coming from a long line of game wardens, naturalists, hunters, and guides, Jack inherited a deep-rooted love for the wild. As the fourth generation of his family to live in East Africa, he has been based in Nairobi for the last three years. A passionate traveller, wildlife enthusiast, and skilled photographer, Jack spends his time journeying across Africa, capturing its beauty and telling the stories of its wild heart.
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